EVERY DAY
In a small village, things operate differently. You’ll likely to see the same people several times in the same day. The routines of where you have a coffee and shop for prosciutto don't vary much. That can also mean more opportunities to make friends, become part of the place, to get into the rhythm of a place. Here are a few observations from around town in Radicondoli.
The Cappuccino Report
Knowing where and when to get morning coffee is one of the ways we bond with a place- knowing the routine, the barista’s name, which croissant is your favorite. Radicondoli has two coffee bars. They’re more like communal living rooms than bars. Where locals catch the soccer match, watch the news, kids can play when mom wants a break, the daily paper is out and drinks get poured with gusto. The main bar is called Bar Nazionale, faithfully run by the Barducci family.
Bar ACLI is at the entry of town and features a pool table (no pockets on these tables) and a perch to watch for everyone coming and going from town. A kind of unofficial sentry post of sorts. The two bars alternate schedules so coffee (the local Indios brand) and vino (often Colle Senese) are always flowing until well into the evening.
A 20 Minute Walk-Around
The one main street is Via Gazzei which holds most of the small shops serving the locals, the main piazza and the main church. It’s where the “action” is in town, which means mostly eating, wine-sipping and people watching. And most likely trying to talk with the faces you’ve seen a few times by now. The barista at Bar Nazionale who likely made your espresso or Stefania who’s name you saw on her apron at the COOP grocery store when you bought prosciutto and fruit for lunch, or maybe Viviana and Ale from the home-goods craft store, Ammos. There are a few other secondary streets and several winding paths that spill down off the edges of the main street. There are sweeping views of the Metallifere hills on each side of town, but Radicondoli is a small and calm little village of about 1000 people. (You make it 1001!)
Food Choices / Few but Unforgettable
One can assume that because you’re in a small town that means eating small too. Not in Italy. The consistently best food is frequently found in expected out of the way places, like here. There are 3-4 eateries serving up some of the most honest and memorable Italian food. Well known throughout Italy is the trattoria/pizzeria La Pergola. Tommaso and Silvia have turned a pizza oven and amazing panorama into a destination people drive hours to enjoy. Radicondoli is known for being “that place with the incredible pizza”. Then there is Bar Nazionale , AgriTeca and Il Granaio each different and spectacular in their own style. Eat outside and watch the locals pass as you try foods and wines that never leave this region. Then there’s the food market/ and other spots and as well as 4-5 notable places within a 30-minute drive. (See Discoveries section). You’ll not go hungry here. The eateries rotate nights they’re closed so there is always a dinner place waiting. (Ask about their kitchen hours to avoid surprises).
Life in the Piazza
The town has a main piazza and several secondary ones. One is used as a parking lot unless there’s festival or the weekly market rolls into town. One is up near the cemetery and always seems somber and slow, But the main piazza is nestled between the church, the pharmacy, the town hall and the monastery. It can be still one hour and hosting a wedding the next. Take a bench and watch. The main church in the piazza (Collegiata dei Santi Simone e Giuda) is similar to thousand in Italy but of particular note are the Casolani painting and the Madonna Della Mercedes, a medieval era madonna in the left cloister. The benches carry family inscriptions, most of which still live here. Baldi, Guargualini, Pacini, Paradisi, Fiorenzani. Family names you’ll likely be meeting.
A B&B Kind of Town
There is a lodging regulation in Italy that allows farms and country home to offer lodging. A kind of Italian version of the British B&B. Radicondoli has a selection of several at a wide range of price points. Some of the agritourismos are in town, some walking distance out of town and some are a 5-20 minute drive from town. Many are pretty deluxe with pools, prep kitchens and outdoor pizza ovens. Some like Casa Illuminata (my house) are right in town next to La Pergola Pizzeria. It’s good to know this small town has virtually no typical hotels, but thrives on the agritourismo model where you can meet the host, eat their cooking and maybe make a new friend.
No Train, No Bus, No Taxi
So, what’s the best way to get to Radicondoli? Well, you could time it perfectly to catch the twice daily bus that stops way down at the base of the road, but not recommended. It takes a car to get here and to explore the surroundings. There’s a lot to discover within an hour of town, but the car is the best way. The town itself is a walking town with no need for a car at all, but if you want to explore beyond the village…you’ll need wheels. Rentals are arranged from the city you arrive in or from Florence or Siena. (A taxi can be summoned from other towns nearby in a pinch). Easy parking in town and the un-trafficked roads make driving part of the fun.
That White Steam Out on The Horizon
This region is very fortunate to sit on top of natural geothermal energy. In fact, it heats the homes in town with virtually zero pollution at very low cost. The steam you see comes for power turbines out in the far distance generating energy from the escaping heated waters below ground. That's why there are also some secluded hot mineral springs around to be discovered as well. There is also a geothermal museum in the village explaining more about the phenomenon.
